PUBLISHED HERE IN SUNDAY STAR TIMES
From the Hell Hole of the Pacific to Romantic Russell, the Bay of Islands will steal your heart.
Located just a three-hour drive or a 35-minute flight north of Auckland, it’s home to 144 islands nestled between Cape Brett and Purerua Peninsula. Paihia is the main town where every local seems to know each other. Even if you’re a tourist, it’s hard to imagine not being greeted with smiles all year round.
Whether your heart’s at sea, up in the clouds, if food is your best friend, or you simply love a well-told story, you won’t be disappointed.
Photo by Alexandra Nelson. If you look carefully you can see a lady’s face in the rock. It is the face of Tetukatiamoana, the guardian of the Bay. She faces dead north where Maori believe they come from; legendary Hawaiki.
TAKE TO THE SEA
After an all-you-can-eat breakfast at Scenic Hotel Bay of Islands we take a 10-minute stroll to the main wharf in the centre of Paihia. We wait to hop on our Discover the Bay cruise where we are greeted by our witty skipper Gavin.
“My boss from his air-conditioned office in Auckland guarantees marine wildlife sightings, no pressure on us, but if we don’t find you some dolphins or whales then we’ll give you a free ticket which is valid for life … we give you a lifetime guarantee,” he says.
We have our fingers crossed, but are confident because dolphins are seen on more than 90 per cent of the trips.
There’s no better way to check out the islands than hitting the water by boat. But first we stop off at the quaint town of Russell, which was once known as the Hell Hole of the Pacific. The town’s bad reputation started in the 1830s when it was one of the first seaports ever to be established in New Zealand, and it was lawless. Back in the day, behind every grog shop was a brothel and the first missionaries couldn’t believe their eyes with the amount of drunks and rowdy behaviour. The sailers thought it was ace but it had a devastating effect on trade.
Today, it’s known as Romantic Russell and it’s easy to see why, with its historic buildings, bustling seaside cafes, restaurants and art galleries.
Photo by Alexandra Nelson. The black rocks are a popular nesting spot for the black back gulls.
As the boat sways with the swell, we reach the iconic Hole in the Rock on Motukokako island, just off the northern tip of Cape Brett. The hole is caused by waves smashing through the weakest part of the rock over thousands of years as it slowly erodes away. The weather is perfect so Gavin asks everyone on board if we want to go through it. A few enthusiastic “yeahs” are yelled out across deck; we’re lucky it’s a calm day because the last thing we want is was to “be on the 6pm news”, Gavin says.
No need to worry though, the guardian of the Bay, who is the face of Tetukatiamoana looks over the islands from a rock facing dead north where Maori believe they came from: legendary Hawaiki. Legend goes that she protects everybody at sea, especially those passing through the rock.
Just as we’re getting hungry we pull into the pristine Otehei Bay on Urupukapuka Island, otherwise known as the Jewel of the Bay, for some finger-licking good tacos and soup which the crew have prepared. If you have time walk up the one of the hills for some apparently gasping panoramic views. Unfortunately, we miss out as our stomachs get the better of us.
Photo by Alexandra Nelson. Parasailing in the Bay is a popular activity.
The next stop is the bellybutton: the centre of the Bay and where New Zealand fur seals bask in the sunlight and cosy up on the rocks. They make the rocks look comfy but I’m not so sure they would be for us.
Although we’re lucky to see seals and the occasional shark fin, the four-hour cruise ends back at Paihia without any sightings of dolphins or whales. So, we are given a free ticket, valid for life. Gavin says the record for using the ticket is 16 years later but we bet we’ll be back before then.
If you didn’t want to end the tour by going straight back to Paihia, you have the option to explore Russell with a free ferry ticket back to the main wharf.
Photo by Alexandra Nelson. Walking through the Scenic Hotel Bay of Islands’ gardens is the perfect way to start the day.
If you don’t find your sea legs then why not swap them for four longer ones? Kate’s Riding Centre in Kerikeri is just a 30-minute drive from Paihia and offers a nice change of pace with vast dewy farmland and lots of cheeky sheep and bulls who share the views.
Kate’s Riding Centre in Kerikeri offers horse treks through a 220-acre farm.
We saddle up our friendly but stubborn horses Stan and Woody who are sometimes more interested in eating grass than walking. We are lead by 19-year-old horse-mad Sarah and slowly make our way up the 220-acre farm, across swamp land and up to the top. Once we’re comfortable using the reins we try trotting and jumping into a small dam. Learning how to get into the dam wasn’t as easy as it looked but was by far the best part of the trek. Our legs are pretty sore afterwards.
If your horse seems lazy at the beginning, she should pick up the pace within the hour once she’s comfortable with her new rider. We ride in rope halters rather than bridles and all horses are “barefoot”/unshod so things are done the natural way.
Alongside Bar is right next to Paihia Wharf and is a stunning open space with Bay views.
TASTES IN THE BAY
From the ocean to the paddock to the plate, there’s something for everyone. If you’re after an international smorgasbord then the quirky Food Friday at Alongside Bar is a great way to add some spice to the night. The outdoor area, lit up with fairy lights, is right on the water and has a cool breeze blowing hints of sea salt through the deck. The flaming heaters around the restaurant keep the chill off, making it super cosy.
Mexican and French are the hot flavours of the night, along with more local fare like whitebait fritters and kumara soup.
Charlotte’s Kitchen has an unforgettable selection of food and wine.
Saturday night at Charlotte’s Kitchen is buzzing. The best oysters and sav blanc we’ve ever tried were at this restaurant on Pier five. Squeezing the freshest Waikare Inlet oysters with prelibato white balsamic, lemon and Tabasco and sipping on the local Kainui Road sav blanc was heavenly.
Kainui Road wine is made in the Bay, so we can’t resist ordering a few. Our table service is top-notch.
Vineyards are all over the area and if you have time they’re worth visiting.
STORIES
The Museum of Waitangi at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds is a highlight of the weekend. We arrive an hour before our guided tour starts so we explore the museum.
Photo by Alexandra Nelson. A parasailer floats in front of the Waitangi Treaty Grounds.
The display is fab: super-easy to understand and the installations are interactive and engaging. Sometimes museums can be a bore but this one was far from it. Whether you’re a Kiwi or not, it’s a great place to learn about New Zealand history and witness where the Treaty of Waitangi was first signed in 1840.
After an hour of getting lost within the displays, we walk through the grounds with our fierce tour guide Ngati Kawa Taituha. We are transported back in time as he shows us the 35-metre long warrior canoes made from the native kauri tree, otherwise known to Maori as the king of the forrest, imagine the first days of colonisation, and hear of the killings – and friendships -made right where we stand.
A traditional Maori welcome and an authentic Maori cultural performance including waiata, poi and, of course, the haka are next on the cards and a visit to the carved meeting house (marae).
The grounds aren’t just rich with history but the sweet gardens make for a nice stroll and the onsite Whare Waka Cafe has a charming little lake with wildlife and affordable food. If you love a good pie then the chicken one is a treat and the coffee is hot off the press.
MORE INFORMATION See visit boi.co.nz and waitangi.org.nz
STAYING THERE Scenic Hotel Bay of Islands at 58 Seaview Rd, Paihia is just a 10-minute walk into the main town and has tropical-influenced architecture with lush gardens, a pool and light airy rooms. See scenichotelgroup.co.nzTimes travelled with assistance from the Bay of Islands
The writer travelled with assistance from the Bay of Islands Marketing Group.